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After graduating from the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in 1981, Demeulemeester found success almost immediately. A year after her graduation, she won the Gouden Spoel, an annually awarded prize to th...
After graduating from the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in 1981, Demeulemeester found success almost immediately. A year after her graduation, she won the Gouden Spoel, an annually awarded prize to the year's most promising fashion designer. Ann began working as a freelance designer for a few years, and then proceeded to release her own line in 1985 with husband Patrick Robyn. Her first collection was shown in a Parisian art gallery with a makeshift runway and somber models in 1992. In 1996, she debuted her own menswear line. With a close attention to detail and use of cutting-edge techniques and materials, Ann Demeulemeester consistently produces pieces that are distinctive and instantly recognizable. She began by drawing influence from gothic, punk, and Japanese styles while still remaining true to her own ideas. Her pieces, which at times have been described as "funereal", have subtle hints of emotion and emphasis on sexuality. In 1994, her silhouette became more elongated and streamlined. Though Demeulemeester works with a very specific aesthetic, she continuously strives to push conventions and produce fresh looks for each season. "I could do it the easy way, give the same pieces, but if I don't try new things then I'm not pushing myself, and I feel bad. I feel lazy." Despite being approached by major fashion houses (names of which she refuses to divulge), Ann Demeulemeester emphasizes both design and financial independence, and chooses to remain with her own line. She opened her own shop in Antwerp in 1999. Her collections are now sold in over 30 countries worldwide. Ann Demeulemeester worked with the artist Jim Dine, and draws much of her inspiration from the androgynous singer, Patti Smith. She worked on a clothing line inspired by Jackson Pollock. In June 2013, 32 BVBA fashion house was split the Demeulemeester and Ackermann labels into two independent companies. The Demeulemeester label is reported to have $50 million in revenues. The Demeulemeester label "operates freestanding stores in Antwerp, Hong Kong and Tokyo, and wholesales to an array of international retailers including Saks Fifth Avenue and Barneys New York in America, L’Eclaireur and Le Bon Marché in Paris and Lane Crawford and Joyce in Hong Kong." In November 2013, Ann Demeulemeester announced she was leaving her eponymous fashion house. The exit letter also explained that the brand will show its autumn/winter 2014 men's and women's collection together at February's Paris Fashion Week. After Ann's departure in 2013, French designer Sébastien Meunier was named the Artistic Director of the house Having designed for the men's collections since 2010, and having ten years of experience under Martin Margiela, an honorary member of the Antwerp Six, his affinity for Belgian design and experience in the industry made his announcement as the new Artistic Director no surprise to the fashion world. Keeping her vision and aesthetic, while putting his own twist on things, Ann Demeulemeester is still regarded as one of the most influential labels in fashion.Brand Details
Founder
Ann Demeulmeester
Designer
Ann Demeulmeester
from
1985to
2013Sébastien Meunier
from
2013to
2020Stefano Gallici
from
June 2023to
PresentLudovic de Saint Sernin
from
December 2022to
March 2023Brand Strategy
Market segment
Premium
Core business
Apparel
Targets
Men, Women
Last fiscal year ended on December 31, 2021
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