Paris is the city of haute couture. It has always been housing the biggest names in the industry as well as creative geniuses. Beyond the hustle and buzz of fashion weeks, Paris is at its essence the source of trends and refined taste. Numerous styles, which were seen in previous fashion weeks, were present as well in PFW but with an upscale execution and inspiration. Furthermore, what made the collections even more exciting was the shift in the aesthetics of many Fashion Maisons such as Elie Saab, which introduced a more toned down collection with lighter fabric as well as the introduction of accentuated prints.
Also with a spirit of revival, Saint Laurent’s collection was inspired by the same flair as the previous season, but Slimane opted to add a refreshing Californian edge: Dresses were flirty showing more cleavage and femininity. The military print was also strongly present mixed and matched with diverse prints as well as tights and around the neck silk scarfs. Sacai similarly had military hues of colour in its collection; those earthy shades were contrasted with floral prints as well as more basic cut crisp shirts.
On another scale, Valentino’s collection mirrored Italy’s long history of heritage. The dresses were inspired by monuments and antiques from churches and historical sites, all across history. The collection was deep and rich and the sandals were below the knee gladiator inspired. Also in the gladiator theme, Givenchy presented a collection on the edgier side with leather being the main element. Dresses were form fitted strong and imposing. Above the knee leather boots reminded us of the leather socks which Prada introduced earlier in MFW.
Sarah Burton’s love of Japan on the other hand was obvious in Alexander McQueen’s collection which had Samurai inspired hues as well as Kimono cuts and overall Geisha styles. Burton gave great attention to detail, which made the collection look rich from afar. Yohji Yamamoto on the other hand diverged from his regular clean Japanese aesthetics to a more daring and revealing collection. The dresses were layered and unstructured which contributed in reviving the overall taste look and style of the brand. Issey Miyake opted to use fabric tech in his collection, which was crisp white, net and light. The Japanese designer presented a collection, which was very similar at its core to the brand’s overall fashion sense and orientation.
On the celebrity side Kanye, Kim as well as North West were the centre of attention of the public as well as journalists and photographers. Present in major fashion shows of the season, they were often criticised for stealing the attention from the actual show and collections. According to our databases, even though Kanye and Kim are considered as huge influencers in any action they take on social media, they do not appear to be the biggest influencers for the brand’s to which they attended the fashion shows. For instance for Balenciaga and Lanvin in which Kanye and Kim made their appearance even with their daughter North, the main top influencers were fashion magazines such as Vogue US, Vogue UK as well as blogs such as fashionista.com. Even though celebrities or prominent figures do not hold those accounts, a substantial follower base gives enough credibility for brands to draw their attention to them. For instance @Voguemagazine has a follower base of over 4M, whereas @fashionista_com has approximately 1.2M followers.
On another side speaking of PFW’s most memorable moments, Chanel’s protestation, which came unintentionally in parallel with the street rallies happening in Honk Kong, didn’t fail to impress us and draw the attention of major press towards the brand. Also part of PFW’s brand innovations was Dior’s mirrors at the Louvre, which left all bloggers and attendees pose, snap and share which also contributed to creating social media buzz for the iconic French Maison.
A big fashion and tech break through also made its debut in PFW with the introduction of the Apple watch at Colette. Apple aimed to present its newest addition to its family of products in a luxury and fashion forward context. VIP guests such as Karl Lagerfeld and Anna Wintour attended the event and were given an avant-premiere access to experience the watch. The overall vibe and energy of Paris was positive with emerging trends, exciting new introductions and reinventions of some brands.
How do fashion weeks differ in their approach?
NYFW is known for its youthful contemporary labels. Legendary brands, which make up the American lifestyle display their collections during this week and various events, pop up stores as well as branding activities happen in an attempt to promote the fashion industry and the public’s crave. This year NYFW was not any different, after all it is natural and intuitive for the soul of fashion week to duplicate the energy of the city. Celebrities, this year, were numerous and the same applies to new fresh ideas incorporated in fashion shows such as Tommy Hilfiger’s rock band. NYFW is an introduction to the trends which are expected to be seen in the following fashion capitals, therefore the floral as well as the 70s trend made their appearance first in NYC.
London displayed the same trends but in an edgier manner for instance. The overall feel of LFW was toned down. Bloggers were not as extreme in their styles and unexpectedly flats were the dominating got to trend for fashion shows’ invitees. The city primarily displayed artistic manifestations of fashion. Brands were also active from the social point of view; after all London has always been an avant-garde fashion capital. Moving on to Milan, whose force has mainly originated from the iconic brands, which nestle in the city. The main dominating trends were also strongly present but with flairs of femininity and particular refined styles exclusive to the Italian lifestyle. And then came haute couture, the French capital never fails to deliver. Innovative displays and Chanel’s very own feminist protestation were all factors, which once again proves that Paris is indeed the essence of the international fashion scene.
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