Milan is the third seasonal fashion week (MFW) and a rather calm pit stop after the bustling scene of London. It is deeply rooted with iconic and legendary brands, which star in their shows relative to their heritage, rich cuts and researched concepts. At times Milan is blamed for not encouraging young talents and not introducing new fresh blood in the agenda of their shows. With the change in the management of Camera Italiana della moda, buyers, influencers and reporters expected to see a difference but the rigid and at times provincial system didn’t deliver. Anyhow aside from the ambience surrounding the shows, iconic brands such as Prada, Dolce & Gabbana, as well as Emilio Pucci put on quite a spectacle and set trends already seen in LFW and NYFW but with a feminine touch.
Trends set in the coming SS15
Alessandra Facchinetti hit the point with its SS15 collection in the efforts to reinvent Tod’s as a maison. By now it is obvious that the floral trend is among the most prominent to watch out for. Tod’s took this trend and tailored it to what it does best: Leather craftsmanship at it’s finest. Laser cut hole leather dresses were weightless and flowing, suitable for a SS15 collection. Missoni incorporated its iconic print into the floral trend: Silk was the main fabric giving an unprecedented flow to the collection. Missoni was easy going and also featured metallic hued flats and simple hairstyles as well as makeup with a pop of red lips. Some looks also flaunted an extra addition of a turban. The collection was simple romantic and happy just what we are meant to feel during the summer season.
Moschino, on the other hand, is on a totally different page. The designer doesn’t seem to go with the flow and takes his own inspiration from iconic cultural brand names. In the fall it was all about McDonalds, this season it was a reinterpretation of Barbie. This doll with unrealistic proportions took centre stage with a very girly and bubbly fashion show whose main element was pink leather. On a more serious note came Prada with a rather conflicting collection. The main element, which struck was the stitching: it blended luxurious fabric along with plain ordinary cotton. The collection had a wary sense of unfinished perfection: An impression, which can only be associated with a genius such as Miuccia Prada. No place for florals but the collection rather placed centre stage the complexity of social disparities.
MSGM’s collection was relatively toned down. As with Moschino, silk was the main fabric used. Different types of birds giving an element of refined natural elegance inspired the prints typical of this particular brand.
Dsquared2’s designs were very structured and edgy with block palettes of the basic colours, which reminded us why we are fans of this particular brand. As for Dolce & Gabbana, the designer duo took their inspiration from Sicily but this season it was blended with hints from Spain. Black and red were main elements of the collection.
Events and Celebrities
Milan is not an obvious city. Its main bustling scene is not clearly visible if you are a first time visitor. This also applies to Fashion Week when the main events and branding activities occur away from the public eye and are more reserved and exclusive.
Marni opted to present a collection inspired by the floral trend, however the 20-year-old brand celebrated its milestone with its very own flower market at Rotonda Della Besana. The brand displayed limited edition printed totes as well as gardening tools whose percentage of profits aid Tibetan children in India. The brand increased its exposure through a simple yet deeply rooted initiative, which gave the audience an easy going feel to the fashion show.
On the other flip, Vogue Italia’s 50th anniversary was a milestone in the history of this iconic magazine and a star-studded event. Celebrities from models to designers were present to celebrate with Italian Editor in chief Franca Sozzani. This party also witnessed the announcement of Vogue archives a digital platform encompassing the historic archive of the magazine. Bulgari and Mercedes Benz hosted the amfar event, which was also one of the major parties of this season’s MFW. Jewellery from Bulgari was auctioned as well as a Jean-Paul Goude poster of singer Grace Jones.
Kendal Jenner also starred in many fashion shows including Dolce & Gabbana, Emilio Pucci, and Fendi. It has become a trend in this SS15 to see models from the 90s take centre stage again like Naomi Cambpell in Emilio Pucci. Has the trend shifted from anonymous models and star designers to the opposite balance were models take centre stage?
According to our Fashionbi's Business intelligence Index, Dolce & Gabbana ranks second in terms of gaining the best results in regards to MFW, as compared with its competitors. This demonstrates the brand’s combination of sturdy social media presence and engagement along with strong financial positioning. Let's analyse how the brand was active across its outlets and how receptive was the public to its efforts especially on the day of its fashion show: 21 September 2014. The brand was very active on Instagram on the day of the fashion show with a total of 19 posts and an equally receptive public with a high engagement rate, in response for the posts on that same day. The best photos by impact were all related to pictures taken of the fashion show and its details: The photo with the most impact being the one with Kendall Jenner. As for Twitter, @Dolcegabbana totalled at 16 Tweets on the day of the show with the hashtags of #MFW, #dolcegabbana, #dgwomen, as well as #dgss15 being the most used in the fashion industry and by the official account of the brand.
It is quite normal that the brand witnesses a drop in the active response of its followers after the day of the fashion show. This drop is inevitable because the trend across social media moves from one brand to the other as the consequent show unveils. However, why not give the audience an insider look at a detail from the show before the actual date and turn their followers into a loyal base which has the opportunity to get this sneak-peak. This will create loyalty and credibility to their account as well as an increased follower base.
Fashion weeks are almost done with the last remaining ones in Paris. What will the French capital present this season? Will it be similar to the past fashion weeks or will its usual luxury dominate and reveal new trends? To know the answers, stay tuned to Fashionbi Insights.
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