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Born in 1975 in Pompei, near Naples, Francesco Scognamiglio opened his first atelier when he was 23. Since then his career has been constantly on the rise thanks to his designs often characterised by a strange dichotomy between research, experimentation and avant-garde inspirations on one side and the traditional principles of the Neapolitan tailoring school on the other. This perennial dichotomy came back in Scognamiglio’s Spring/Summer 09 collection: perfectly tailored cropped jackets were paired with black plastic see-through trousers; there was an emphasis on sleeves, shoulders and shoulder-pads, often decorated with ethereal feathers; sculpted ruffles appeared on necklines, skirts and dresses, alternated to cascades of roses. Soft and light fabrics were juxtaposed to stiffer fabrics used to create more structured volumes and silhouettes. This bi-dimensionality allowed the outfits to acquire a new form as the fabrics created chiaroscuro effects and a tactile experience exalted by the body’s movement. Scognamiglio’s ivory silky suits and his signature organza blouses were impeccable, while his rigid coat dresses mirrored the personality of the muse the young designer had in mind when he designed this collection, a self-confident and warrior-like, though highly sensual and sexy, woman.